September of 2023: She is sitting in a green plastic lawn chair and gazing out onto the bustling scene outside her shop window: fruit pans from right to left, pan dulce on rolling karts, a man yelling out ahh-guaaaa. I’m forcing a black sneaker over my heels, unable to untie the laces that criss-cross through punctures in flimsy fabric. “En realidad,” I hesitate “no son Nikes reales, verdad?”
Even though she was talking about knock-off name-brand shoes, her quiet stupor and lack of eye contact gave the reply a mythic weight: “Joven—nada es real.”
I left the tienda with my new fake Nikes, and I start to laugh. I’m chucking about existentialism, about maybe being in a coma, about needing to put on my new shoes and jump off the ledge of the riverwalk to wake up. But, I laugh too from a memory, a story back in New Orleans from my friend Pasha. She’d gone to a gem and lapidary store in the French Quarter, put on five different rings—silver, gold, amethyst, and quartz—flashed her bejeweled hand in the mirror and exclaimed: “I’ll take them all!” Then, the shop-keeper—a middle-aged New Age Louisiana woman—held her head in her hands, hunched over the counter and offered: “You goin’ through somethin’, sweetie?”
Now, I’m walking along a cobble-stone canal in Querétaro around midnight, waiting for Victor to answer my messages. He’ll often go 2, 12, or 24 hours before replying, so I’ll just walk and wait in my purple trench-coat, considering all the people who could have asked me if I was goin’ through somethin’; I so desperately need a Southern femme to condescend me with care. It could have been Maja, or the woman at the bus station kiosk, or even my academic advisor. But, nevermind: when Victor’s wrapped up in me and the white sheets of the cheap hotel in Centro, I’ll forget all about this desperation, I’ll forget I’m the guy who hooked up once and bought a bus ticket to some midnight psychosis. I’ll pour the last bits of wine into my glass and wait for messages over the phone I don’t understand. I’ll view the crumbling walls of this unknown city as another partition to scale: I’ll feel love, and whisper-moan into his pierced ears: It’s so good, it’s so good, it’s sooo gooooood. We’ll stay up all night, for hours sharing our little joys and traumas: Ladies if you love ya man, show him you the saddest. Cry-up on him, girl, show him you deny it. I’ll thrust over and over again, and on the bus back to the city, I’ll look up the cost of airfare to Lyon, France because joven—nada es real: money, stability, love, loneliness; nor history, culture, colonialism, peace treaties, or transnational corporations.
“I accept anything from you with joy and wonder,” I say between kisses. His joking reply is surprisingly dark: “Even just 5 minutes in my arms before ICE takes me away?”
We share 5 minutes of kisses and caresses at the security line in Benito Juarez International Airport; and, then glance over our shoulders while he crosses the threshold of a liminal border—the white metal beams separating nation-states and romantic fantasies. Take me back to old Querétaro, no you can’t go back to old Querétaro. I’ll walk the 5 miles back home at sunset just because it feels more romantic that way. Tomorrow, I’ll wonder how my pan dulce compares to fresh croissants in Lyon; I’ll sit at an art deco desk and wonder who will touch him next, who will touch me next, and whether it will quell heartache or only reinforce it. And I wonder when I’m next caliente, whether I’ll still say estoy visitando.